Diet · training · exercise · grooming

Caring for an Irish Wolfhound

Our own approach to feeding, training, exercising and grooming a Wolfhound, from an eight-week-old puppy to a fully grown show hound.

Diet

You own, or are thinking of owning, one of the largest breeds of dog, so you need to be conscientious about diet. A puppy grows about ten times bigger in its first year, so it needs plenty of good fuel – the better the fuel, the healthier the hound. Our pedigree, breeding and rearing give our puppies a good foundation, but continuing that good start is what really counts.

We each have our own way of feeding our Wolfies, and here we share ours – not the only way, and not the only right way, but one that has suited our puppies and adults well. Take into account the exercise you give, the conditions you rear in, and the individual dog. Change any diet slowly and with patience, and observe: energy levels, coat shine and texture, overall condition, behaviour – and yes, stools too, which are a very good indicator of health.

Your puppy will have been fed three to four times a day with us (not every puppy eats at every meal), and it is best to keep to a similar diet for a while before changing anything. We believe strongly in feeding giant breeds as much natural, raw food as possible. If you would rather not prepare your own, a good-quality adult chicken-and-rice food will do well – but please do not feed commercial puppy food, as the protein is too high, and never add milk.

Our own mix is simple: raw mince, meat scraps, chicken or fish, combined with dog biscuits or kibble that has been softened in boiling water – about half meat, half biscuit. While it is still hot, we stir in two tablespoons of suet. Then we add one to two cups of chopped fresh or cooked vegetables and table scraps, and let it cool. Finally, we add half a teaspoon of a calcium supplement from the vet, and feed. We use a deliberately lower-grade biscuit, so the puppy does not get too much protein.

Puppies will not overeat, and should have as much as they can manage – check that a little is always left in the bowl, and remove and wash the bowl after every meal. Reduce the frequency of meals as your puppy grows; by a year old, two meals a day is right.

Adults do far better on two meals a day than one large bowl: eating less at a sitting helps prevent torsion, or bloat, which affects most giant breeds. You can slow down a greedy hound by placing a large stone in the middle of the bowl, so it has to eat around it. Keep your hound quiet for an hour after eating, and be careful with water too – too much, too soon after a long walk, can also trigger torsion, so offer small amounts several times rather than a large bowl all at once. Feed and water at a comfortable height for your hound's size, especially while it is still growing, so that it does not need to splay its elbows to reach the bowl.

Training

Every dog should be trained. A puppy is learning all the time, so we like to make sure it is learning useful things from the very start. A good breeder will already have begun collar and lead work, coming when called, sit and down before a puppy goes to its new home – all of these are easiest to teach between six and twelve weeks of age. If your puppy has not had this start, begin as soon as you bring it home.

Coming when called is simple to teach, because a puppy tends to follow you everywhere anyway. Call it cheerfully by name, reward with a small treat and praise, and hold it gently by the collar as you praise it, so it gets used to being handled when it responds. Never make coming to you unpleasant – however long it takes, and however frustrated you feel, stay bright and cheerful, or your hound will learn that staying away is the safer option.

To teach sit, hold a small treat just above your puppy's head and move it back, so the pup sits to keep watching it; say "Sit", then reward and praise. To teach down, lower the treat to the floor so the puppy lies down to follow it, saying "Down" as it does. Reward-based methods – including clicker training – shape behaviour by reinforcing what you want, rather than punishing what you don't, and this builds understanding as well as a better relationship between you and your hound. Clicker training may not suit a very sound-sensitive dog, though muting the clicker to begin with often helps.

Train your puppy to walk on a loose lead, on both your left and your right – useful in the show ring, and in everyday life too. Don't jerk the lead; if your hound pulls, simply stop and wait until it is calm at your side before moving on. Puppy socialisation classes are excellent for getting a pup used to other dogs, children and people. Whether or not you attend classes, take your puppy out into the world – traffic, noise, different surfaces, machines, umbrellas – because the wider its early experience, the calmer and more accepting the adult hound will be.

Exercise

A puppy up to six months old should simply play, with no formal exercise beyond training, and plenty of rest – children and other dogs should never be allowed to harass it. A Wolfhound puppy grows extremely fast, and skeletal disorders can be caused by both the wrong feeding and the wrong exercise. Do not let a puppy play for long periods with older Wolfhounds, or with smaller, higher-energy breeds that can keep going long after a giant puppy should have stopped to rest – the puppy will carry on regardless, and damage its growing bones.

Do not take a puppy under six months old for proper walks; lead-train it, but do not march it anywhere. From six months, begin short walks – just a few minutes a day, building very gradually to about a mile – plus a little free running. By nine months, build towards two miles a day at a year old, plus free running; by eighteen months, twenty minutes or more of free running twice a day, plus a couple of miles of walking. Never make a puppy shorten its stride to a toddler's pace, which harms its developing structure. "Not proper walks" does not mean a cage, though – space to play and run freely is just as vital to health as diet and sleep.

An adult hound needs at least twenty minutes of free exercise twice daily, with some road walking too. Give no exercise for an hour before, or two hours after, feeding, because of the risk of bloat and gastric torsion. Never exercise in the heat of the day; in warm weather, walk early and late instead. Never leave a dog in a car in warm weather – even in shade, a car becomes an oven within minutes. Avoid jumping and agility until your hound is fully grown, and remember that going downstairs is hard on any dog's joints, though walking uphill helps build muscle in an adult.

The Wolfhound should be hard-muscled – it is, after all, a galloping breed – but good muscle comes from structure and diet as much as from exercise, so never try to muscle up a puppy. And remember that the Wolfhound was bred to hunt, and many still keep a strong prey drive; even hounds raised alongside other animals may not always be entirely trustworthy with them as adults.

Grooming

Start almost as soon as you bring your puppy home: brush it with a soft brush, look in its mouth and ears, lift its tail and feet, feel gently all over its body, and get it used to being examined both standing and lying on its side, with its toes moved and nails trimmed. Do this often, so your puppy accepts it simply as part of life – it is far harder to deal with an adult hound that will not be groomed or examined.

The Wolfhound does not need a great deal of grooming, but does need regular brushing and a thorough going-over once a week; softer, longer coats will need more work still. For the show ring, a hound is tidied, not stripped out, except to remove old, dead coat. Long ear hair is removed a little at a time with finger and thumb; most people use thinning scissors or a stripping knife on the feet, and to tidy the ridges that can grow down the neck – but always leave the mane. Tidy the hair under the belly and the tuck-up so there is no long fringe, and strip any thick hair at the base of the tail so the topline flows smoothly. Step back often as you work, to see the whole hound as a judge will.

Don't leave preparation to the day before a show: bathe your hound two to three weeks ahead so the coat has time to settle, and strip a little each day rather than all at once. Feed the right diet to help keep the mouth and teeth healthy, and examine the mouth regularly throughout your hound's life – bad teeth can cause major health problems, and mouth cancers are often missed simply because no one thought to look. When you do bathe your hound, use a proper dog shampoo formulated for canine skin pH – never a human, baby or anti-dandruff shampoo. If the skin seems scurfy, look again at the diet, especially essential fatty acids and B-complex vitamins.

Continue exploring the breed

Heritage · Quality · Companionship

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